Leopard Gecko Setup Guide

Leopard Gecko Setup Guide

Enclosure

I feel that adult leopard geckos require approximately 5 square feet of floor space or more to support healthy exploration and proper thermoregulation. Because they primarily utilize ground space rather than vertical area, a standard 12-inch-tall enclosure is perfectly suitable for most geckos, though some individuals may benefit from a 24-inch height to accommodate deeper substrate or climbing opportunities. We have two enclosures that work well:

Substrate

Now you have to decide if you want a sterile, naturalistic, or bioactive enclosure.

Option A: Sterile Setup

If you go sterile, paper towels, newspaper, or shelf liner are all great options. I do not recommend reptile carpet, as it collects bacteria, is hard to clean, and your gecko's nails can catch and tear on it. We carry a heavy-duty option that can be easily trimmed to fit perfectly inside our enclosures: Liner Roll

Option B: Naturalistic Setup

If you want to go with a naturalistic look, we have an excellent loose bedding option:

Alternatively, you can create a safe DIY mix using a 70/30 blend of play sand or reptile sand (ensure it is strictly calcium-free) and one of the following bases:

Another fantastic DIY substrate option is a 40/40/20 mix using peat, organic topsoil, and play/reptile sand.

Option C: Bioactive Setup

For a self-sustaining ecosystem, we carry two great base options:

To establish a thriving cleanup crew, add natural plant material for your microfauna to shelter in and snack on:

The Cleanup Crew: Introduce microfauna to recycle waste. Arid or semi-arid springtails are the best option; Silver Springtails (Seira dowlingi) work beautifully. For isopods, docile and arid-hardy choices like Powder Isopods (Porcellionides pruinosus) (such as Powder Blues or Powder Oranges) and Grand Canyon Isopods (Porcellio dilatatus) work best. (Avoid aggressive, protein-hungry species like Dairy Cows (Porcellio laevis), which have a reputation for bothering resting or shedding geckos.)

Heating, Lighting & Climate Control

To accurately monitor your microclimate, you will need a quality thermometer/hygrometer on each side of the enclosure to track ambient temperatures and humidity levels. We carry:

Heat Sources

You can achieve proper ambient warmth by adhering a heat pad to the bottom or side of the enclosure, mounting a radiant heat panel to the ceiling, or utilizing an overhead ceramic heat emitter. You will also need a dedicated basking light and a UVB light. We carry a variety of heat sources:

If you want to go with a ceramic heat emitter, we have a generic and a branded version:

I recommend the 25W or 50W strengths for efficient, lightless 24-hour heat.

⚠️Temperature Regulation & Thermostats

CRITICAL SAFETY NOTE: You must use a thermostat to properly control your heating elements and prevent accidental animal burns. Even if a heating device comes with its own basic manual controller, running it through a dedicated safety thermostat is mandatory. We offer two highly accurate dimming thermostats that provide consistent temperatures by smoothly adjusting wattage rather than shutting power off entirely:

We also carry a dependable on/off thermostat that toggles power once target temps are hit:

Where to Place Your Thermostat Probes

Ceramic Heat Emitters: I attach my CHE to a thermostat, secure the probe to the far wall of the warm side, and leave it set to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (I leave mine on at all times in case the house gets chilly at night).

Heat Pads: Place the probe directly on the enclosure floor, inside the habitat, right above where the pad is attached underneath. Set it to 80 degrees Fahrenheit for a thin, sterile setup, or 85 degrees Fahrenheit if navigating deeper substrate. If you are placing the heat pad on the wall, attach the probe on the inside of the enclosure, directly opposite to the side you attached the heat pad.

Basking Lights: Attach your basking lamp to a thermostat. Secure the probe directly under the lamp on top of the warm hide surface, keeping the sweet spot between 92 and 94 degrees Fahrenheit.  I run my daytime basking lamps on a 12-hour on, 12-hour off timer to maintain a natural day/night cycle. We carry the Smart Terrarium Automation Power Series if you need smart plug integration. Secure your probes firmly in place using heavy-duty aluminum tape (this can be found at most hardware stores).

Basking and UVB 

We carry a premier selection of heat and basking bulbs:

Understanding UVB Options: While leopard geckos are crepuscular/nocturnal, access to low-level UVB lighting allows them to truly thrive and aids in natural D3 synthesis and calcium metabolism.

Lighting and Heating Fixtures

Next, you are going to need some fixtures for your bulbs. If you are using one bulb and placing it above your enclosure, this fixture works well; the front guard is easily removable:
Heavy-Duty Deep Dome Clamp Lamp (300W Max)
If you are using two bulbs and are placing it onto or above your enclosure, this model works well:
15-Inch Dual Dome Reptile Light & Heat Fixture (150W Max Per Socket)
If you would like to suspend your lights above your enclosure, we have a great light stand:
Adjustable Reptile Lamp Stand with 360° Swing Arm
We also have these, which can be used both inside or outside of your enclosure
Arcadia Ceramic Reflector Clamp Lamps
If you are placing your bulbs inside your enclosure, we also have this model
Reptile Ceramic Heat Emitter Fixture with Anti-Scald Guard
Or we have this model, but please note that it should only be used for non-heat-producing bulbs, as it does not have a scald guard
Heavy-Duty Ceramic Lamp Holder with Swivel Mount. I also like to use this fixture to attach the Light Socket Enclosure Camera, so that I can monitor my gecko when I'm not at home.

A Note on Bioactive Lighting:

If you are going bioactive you may also want to add additional LED lighting to encourage plant growth. We have a specialized plant version here:

If you are attaching two of these together or attaching one to an Arcadia T5 fixture, we also have connectors

Decor

The Three Essential Hides

To make your gecko feel safe, you must provide a minimum of three distinct hides

Warm Hide

Placed directly under or over your primary heat source. I prefer cave-style hides like our
Realistic Resin Rock Cave Hideout, our Naturalistic Resin Rock Hide Cave(size large), and I also like the medium size Exo Terra Reptile Cave

Cool Hide

This hide is not under or near heat, so you can have some fun with this one. Anything that the gecko can fully fit inside comfortably and have privacy usually works. Position on the opposite side of the habitat, away from all heat sources. We carry great styles like our 3D-Printed Poké Ball Reptile Hide (Medium), our Textured Dome Reptile Hide (Large), or seasonal options like our 3D-Printed Holiday Present Hide and 3D-Printed Spooky Jack-o'-Lantern Reptile Hide

Humid Hide

Positioned in the middle zone between the hot and cool sides, this hide provides vital humidity to help your gecko shed. It should have a smaller opening to lock in moisture. You can use a DIY plastic container with a smooth-edged access hole cut into the lid, or choose a specialized unit like our Humidity Hide (Medium). This one is great because it has a built-in hygrometer. We also have our 2-in-1 Top-Entry Humid Hide & Lay Box (Medium)

Line the inside of your humid hide with damp Sphagnum Moss or wet paper towels, changing them out frequently to prevent stagnant bacterial growth. We have Sphagnum Moss if you need some.

Water & Soaking Dishes

Leopard geckos need access to shallow, clean water. Some geckos love to fully soak their bodies when they are getting ready to shed, so choose a low-profile dish large enough for them to fit inside:

The Latrine (Potty Training!)

Leopard geckos are uniquely clean animals that pick one specific corner of their enclosure to use as a designated bathroom. You can make cleanup incredibly easy by placing a designated tray in their chosen spot:

Enrichment

Providing textures and structural climbing elements vastly improves your reptile's quality of life. You can build a wonderful climbing environment using our Little Tykes Playground (6” or 8”) or by adding natural, reptile-safe wood branches, cork bark tubes, and hollow logs. (Always thoroughly clean and sanitize natural wood before adding it to the enclosure!)

Artificial Plants: If keeping a sterile or naturalistic habitat, fill open spaces with artificial greenery to help your gecko feel secure. We carry premium varieties, including:

Enclosure Compatibility Note: The included suction cup is designed to stick perfectly to glass and smooth plastic surfaces. If you are housing your pet in a PVC or textured acrylic enclosure, I highly recommend pairing our artificial plants with our Magnetic Plant Mount to ensure a secure, fail-safe hold!

Live Plants (Bioactive): If you are going bioactive, add hardy, nontoxic live plants. I highly recommend Peperomia and Pothos, as they are incredibly resilient to digging geckos and thrive well in semi-arid conditions.

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